CARBON STEEL

CPM 3V Tool Steel- (This steel is marked by a "V" under the maker stamp.)  Coming soon!

8670- (This steel has no mark under the maker stamp.)  Coming soon!   

80CRV2 Spring Steel- (This steel is marked by an "X" under the maker stamp.)  Coming soon!

A2 Tool Steel- (This steel is marked by an "A" under the maker stamp.) Coming soon!  

1095 High Carbon- (This steel does not have a mark, but is usually in a hamon or forged blade)  It doesn't come anymore proven than 1095 when it comes to steel. Whether its a Mora, an Old Hickory, or a USMC Ka-Bar most people have had some use with this steel or its equivalent at one time or another.  Good toughness, good edge retention, and easy to maintain in the field has made 1095 a go to steel for many people over the years. I mostly use this steel for Hamon work, but on occasion I use it for forging as well.  I heat treat this steel to a 59-62RC depending on the intended use. 

STAINLESS STEEL

CPM 154- (This steel is marked by two "dots" under the maker stamp) Coming soon!

CPM Magnacut- (This steel is marked by a "five point star" under the maker stamp) Coming soon!

AEB-L Stainless Steel-  (This steel is marked by a "-" under the maker stamp) This is a fine grained stainless razor blade steel and it has quickly become one of my favorite stainless steels!  AEB-L is known for its extremely fine grain and carbide structure which results in a steel that has extremely high edge stability and can take and hold a very fine edged while maintaining very high strength.  Easier to sharpen than O1, with better edge retention and toughness than A2, while also being a stainless makes this one of the best all around steels available for knives!  I now heat treat this steel in house to a 60-63HRC depending upon the intended use. 

Grinds...........................................................................................

Convex Grind-  The Convex Grind is a good all around grind that will perform a lot of tasks well and is easy to sharpen and maintain.  While not quite as good at slicing as a flat grind, it is tougher and works better for battening and wood carving. The Convex Grind is a better bushcraft grind than a flat grind, a better slicer than the scandi and is very easily to maintain your edge in the field.  In my opinion the Convex Grind is the best do it all grind for hunting, bushcraft and utility work.  I grind my convex grinds with a small secondary edge and a thin grind. What this means is that you can just sharpen it like a normal flat grind on a stone and a hard back strop. At the same time, the secondary edge is well blended into the bevel so if you prefer to sharpen on a mouse pad it will work very good as well.  This grind preforms different depending on the thickness you choose. For a better slicer you should go with a 3/32", while for a robust bushcraft knife 5/32" gives you a lot of strength and 1/8" is a good balance of strength and cutting performance.  

Flat Scandi Grind-  (I no longer offer this grind) Probably not the best all around Bushcraft grind this grind is a pure wood carver.  While it's not as good of a slicer as other grinds, if your looking for a purebred wood carving knife, than the Flat Scandi is the way to go. This grind is a standard in the bushcraft world due to its fine sharp edge and easy sharpening. One way to improve it's slicing ability is to keep the stock thin. I think that 1/8" is the best balance between strength, carving and slicing. The scandi also has more strength for the thickness than other grinds because so little metal is ground off for the bevel.  If you balance the thickness right you end up with a knife that is good for just about anything and is sharp as a laser.  Another nice thing about the Flat Scandi grind is that due to the zero degree grind with no secondary bevel it basically has it's own angle guide for sharpening.  simply put the bevel flat on a stone and begin sharpening.  DO NOT PUT A SECONDARY BEVAL ON THIS GRIND!!!!!!!